Langata, Kenya

Silence was the surprise visitor at the Giraffe Manor last night. I arrived at this Scottish Manor around six on Sunday, still sticky from the sultry heat of Lamu, so a bubble bath in the black tub in the upstairs bedroom was ideal. Water flowed from the mouth of a black ceramic lion. I first visited this home in 1977, when Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville forged their dream of preserving a surrounding 147 acres from encroaching subdivision that now marks the land between here and the Ngong Hills. In those days it was daring to walk through the forest between the manor and Hog Ranch, the tented camp owned by photographer Peter Beard. It is still dangerous for young giraffe that roam here; a four-month old named Sandy appeared this morning with blood streaming down its back legs. It my have been attacked by the leopard that has been seen recently in the Langata neighborhood. These nocturnal cats are not dissuaded by subdivision, stalking horses, dogs and infants, and drawn to the sanctuary near the manor, where tall grass can hide many things. We are unlikely to encounter leopard on our morning walk to see a few of the 178 species of birds that live in this forest, including the highly vocal sacred ibis. My hostess Bryony Anderson entertains guests who can feed the 18 foot high adult Rothschild giraffe, the tallest of their kind.

The Giraffe Manor is known around the globe for its elegant giraffe. No other hotel in Africa offers such an exclusive encounter. This manor has enticed such guests as Walter Cronkite , Brook Shields, Johnny Carson and Mick Jagger. There are five double bedrooms, one eaturing art by Kamante, Karen Blixen's chef. The Giraffe Manor has views of Blixen�s beloved Ngong Hills, and cuisine worthy of Kamante. This morning we feasted on robust Kenya coffee, mango and pungent plain yogurt, and fresh passion fruit juice, which inspired Peter Beard's "Passionate Screw:" vodka, passion fruit juice and a touch of rum, on ice.

For more information about The Giraffe Manor see www.giraffemanor.com or inquire at [email protected]