Lamu, Kenya

Full moons seem larger in Africa, and the golden orb that emerged last night cast bright light across the waters of the Lamu archipelago. We sailed the channel in a traditional wooden dhow, its lateen sail made white by the moonlight, and the peaceful slip of the water enhanced by live music, created by the crew (favoring a Bob Marley flag on their vessel.) After a decent rendition of "Sail Away' (Randy Newman) we asked the crew to return to their songs in Swahili.

Friends have gathered here to celebrate the birthday of Carol Korschen, who with her husband Lars manages Peponi's Hotel (www.peponi-lamu.com) Peponi's is the kind of place where you encounter someone from your past or your future, and sure enough, sitting on the verandah was former New York Times illustrator Bob Gale, who drew the maps for my book the Hominid Gang. Gale also illustrated a Travel & Leisure article on Mahale Camp and maps for the Peponi's brochure.

Beautifully stylized maps and illustrations of Africa are the forte of Blue Rhino ([email protected] an outstanding shop in Nairobi with a small rooftop cafe and exhibit space for the best artists and craftspeople in Kenya, displaying furniture and artifacts that demand the palatial space of the Beach House, with an infinity pool on the second floor. My massive bedroom is on the third floor and on the fourth, a rooftop designed for Sundowner parties. As I listen to a CD of African music, dhows drift by and the flat acacia that shades this lofty baraza attracts the impossibly beautiful carmine bee eater (Merops nabicoides) with an aquamarine crown and wings of the same ocher (carmine) color that dusts the Tsavo elephants red.

There is plenty in Lamu to capture the artist's eye, and palate. Fresh prawns are being prepared by the Beach House chef, part of a staff provided in this dreamy sultry retreat with a sun so bright that tonight's moon will illuminate Carol's Surprise party near the Omani fort, mispronounced by newcomers as The Armani Fort.