I write this from Kuki Gallmann's office, an elegant tree house with a spectacular view of Kuki's 100,000 acre wildlife sanctuary, where this morning we saw elephant, Cape buffalo, zebra and giraffe. The windows to this office are open, like the spacious rondavel where I've slept for the past two nights at the Mukutan Retreat; my bathtub overlooked the great Mukutan Gorge. Yesterday we explored Makena's Hills, a luxury tented camp where Kuki has unique tents of white canvas with Arabic windows. The main lodge is a resplendent space originally built for the wedding of Kuki's daughter, known among locals as Makena, "the Happy One." In addition to beautiful panoramic vistas, and wildlife, there is delectable Italian food. Living well is a competitive sport here. Tomorrow we fly to Lake Naivasha to have lunch with Iain and Oria Douglas-Hamilton.